Nothing here starts with a sketch. It starts with a length of cloth on the cutting table. We pick it up, hold it high and watch how it falls.
Weight is the first thing we decide. A wool crepe at 420 grams hangs straight down like a curtain. At 280 grams it moves when you move and catches the air. Neither one is better. They just say different things.
There's a wall of swatches in the studio, sorted by how they hang instead of by colour. The column coat came from the heavy end of that wall. The slip dress came from the light end.
Working this way means going along with what a fabric wants to do instead of fighting it. Honestly, most of the job is just paying attention.